People who love a good bagel will often call it a good bagel. What they mean is the type of best bagel shops in areas where bagel craftsmanship is revered, especially in New York City.
Breanne Kostyk and her team at Flour Moon Bagels make just that kind of bagel, the kind any bagel lover would describe as good – hand-rolled, kettle-boiled after an overnight fermentation, then baked. The result is a light, shiny glow on a surface that gives the right bite to an airy, plush but not dense or heavy interior.
Born as a pop-up in the pandemic, Flour Moon Bagels has just opened its own boutique on the Lafitte Greenway.
Flour Moon Bagels expands beyond tradition, thanks in part to the perspective Kostyk brings to the craft from his career as a pastry chef.
You can get an all bagel with scallion cream cheese or a bagel breakfast sandwich. But Flour Moon’s small opening menu also treats bagels like tartines, the French open-faced sandwich.
One is speckled with salmon roe, avocado and radish; another has a roasted carrot spread under a flower-petal shaped cucumber blossom, finished with duqqa, the nutty-tasting mixture of herbs and nuts, grilled and hot, among other versions.
Imagine the balance and composition of a well-crafted dessert fused with the tasty bagel sandwich and you get the idea.
Kostyk describes the new store as a café built around bagels, with deli-style service at the counter. It shares a large covered patio with Skeeta Hawk Brewing, the brewery slated to open in July, and it shares a wall with Hey Coffee Co., which supplies coffee for the bagel shop.
Flour Moon Bagels has applied for a liquor license and plans to serve brunch-appropriate specialty cocktails, including an iced coffee negroni, alongside Bloody Marys and mimosas.
Flour Moon uses Louisiana cane syrup in its bagel dough instead of the more traditional barley malt syrup, a nod instead.
“We don’t necessarily say we’re a New York bagel, because we’re inspired by New York bagels, but we’re here in Louisiana,” Kostyk said.
From pop-up to greenway
A Connecticut native who went to college in New York, Kostyk grew up knowing bagels well. In New Orleans, she was pastry chef for the Ace Hotel, where she was tasked with developing a bagel recipe. When these received high praise from visiting New Yorkers (see above, the guy after “good bagels”), she knew she was onto something.
When the pandemic hit, Kostyk started Flour Moon Bagels as a pop-up, serving mostly friends and neighbors, one of many such home-based businesses to start during the crisis. Soon, she and her partner Jeff Hinson became regulars at the pandemic-inspired market at Coffee Science, the Mid-City cafe, and their clientele expanded.
With a new cafe, Flour Moon can do more, and Kostyk plans to expand the menu even further in the future. The store has counters, a few tables, and a view of people walking and biking the greenway right outside, from a wall of windows or from the patio. Inside, the place’s soothing colors and soft lines are drawn to a notion that Hinson calls ‘Scandinavian Waffle House’.
The new store is part of a growing trend for small new bakeries that are reviving traditional bagel making and showing more people what a bagel can be beyond mass-produced numbers.
“I really love seeing these independent bagel shops open up all over the country,” Kostyk said. “A lot of it is pandemic-related, and we’re moving forward with it.”
Flour Lunar Bagels
457 N Dorgenois St.
Mon, Thu, Fri 7:30am-2pm, Sat, Sun 8am-3pm (closed Tue, Wed)